Saturday, December 19, 2015

My Favorite Lolita Brand- Metamorphose

Oh, Metamorphose, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways:

1. You offer a wide variety of styles and prints;
2. You take chances, and make edgy choices;
3. Your clothes fit me consistently;
4. You appreciate the kawaii potential of squirrels;
5. Somebody on your design team obviously loves cats;
6. Your website is easy to navigate, and you actually have a section devoted to plus-size;
7. Your prices are more down-to-earth than many of your competitors;
8. There is a sense of fun to your pieces that others sometimes lack;
9. You rock the traditional Japanese-inspired prints;
10. You were my first introduction to the world of Lolita.

Manefestange Metamorphose Temps de Fille ( "Manafestange"? What the heck?) may not be the oldest Lolita brand, or the most well known Lolita brand, but to me, it is the best Lolita brand. For all of the reasons above, and then some, I have more Meta in my closet than any other major brand. Meta makes me smile; it makes me feel good when I wear it. That's what Lolita is all about, right?

Let the photos tell the story:
Bubble Bath print. Look at those lovely details! I love the grumpy kitten!


My squirrel prints. Top: Squirrel to Your Letter. Bottom: Fairy Trump.
Oh, how I want this! Little Squirrel.

Dozing Cat. See what I mean about Japanese-inspired prints? Plus cats. 

This is the kind of dress I first fell in love with when I stumbled across Meta back in 2005 or so. 




                                 

Monday, October 19, 2015

Bodyline- A Choice, not a Mistake

One of the skirts I recently bought. Is it kitchy? Yes. Do I recognize that, and like it all the same? Yes.

In a recent thread on a Facebook group I belong to, people were asked what advice they would give to their "new Lolita" selves. A lot of the answers (and accompanying pictures) were funny chronicles of the awkward mistakes we all make when getting into a new fashion. Of course, as the conversation evolved, it got down to some comments about "bad" places to buy Lolita, and I held my breath, waiting for the inevitable mention of  Bodyline.

 Bodyline.

The mere name sends chills down the spines of many Lolitas. Is it because Bodyline unabashedly sells a line of cosplay items side-by-side their Lolita offerings? Is it the inconsistency of their quality? Is it because of their creepy CEO and founder, "Mr. Yan"?

Yes, yes, and YES to all of the above.

Bodyline has some problems. I won't pretend otherwise. I particularly find the last issue- Mr. Yan, to be troubling. But like anything else, I think you have to submit Bodyline to careful cost-benefit analysis, and I believe the benefits of Bodyline DO outweigh the costs.

First- what Bodyline is not.

It is not brand. Period. Bodyline has an entirely different business model than places like Angelic Pretty, Baby, or Meta. It certainly doesn't operate like Mary Magdalene or Atelier Boz. I wouldn't even put it in the same category as Putumayo or some of the higher-end Chinese makers or the Korean brand Haenuli. You are not going to get carefully constructed designer originals from Bodyline. No limited editions. No exclusive prints. Not going to happen. As a matter of fact, you will get dresses using fabric that is used by several of the smaller Taobao shops- and even some of the bigger ones:

Top- Bodyline "1560" JSK, Bottom- Infanta "Fruit Pies" JSK

That being said, I think Bodyline NOT being brand is one of its charms. Brand is problematic on some levels, too. Brand is very expensive. Brand is hard to buy- both in terms of limited quantities, and less-than-robust online shops for international buyers. They often won't ship directly. And of course, sizing is a problem for many Western buyers. Western Lolitas tend to be larger than Eastern Lolitas- we all know that. I'm not huge by Western standards, and I struggle with some brand - especially tops. 

So what IS Bodyline? Bodyline is a quantity seller- think of it like a big-box discount department store...for Lolita. Because they deal in quantity, they make their stuff readily available. They don't have any need to build a lot of cachet around their product. So they offer lots of sizes, and long production runs at modest prices. Their website is easy to navigate and use- even easier after the recent upgrade- and they ship directly (for free) to the US. All of this benefits the buyer who is looking to buy pieces quickly, cheaply and efficiently. When I just need a basic piece of clothing quickly, or a cheap necklace to go with an outfit, I go to Target. When I want a shopping experience, or I'm looking for something high-quality, or unique, I go to the Plaza. Same concept applies to Lolita. 

I also have to point out that Bodyline, by-and-large, is decent quality. The old saying is true- you get what you pay for, and you definitely get a lot of product when you buy brand. The best made piece of clothing in my closest, Lolita or otherwise, is my Innocent World skirt. The seams are neat and straight, the fabric is smooth, the print is sharp. However, I bought it used, and still payed more for it than a new Bodyline skirt. And it is small. So small, I moved the hook closure over a couple of centimeters to give myself room to breathe. 

I have a dress, two skirts, a cutsew, and a cardigan from Bodyline. They're all decent quality- again, think Target. I would put one of the skirts ( I125- the one with ball fringe) up against my Angelic Pretty or Meta skirts in terms of quality. They all fit nicely without modification, and the OP is downright roomy. The sizing IS a little wonky- the skirts are mediums, the dress is a large, and the shirts are extra large, and they all fit. I chalk this up mostly to me being less than perfectly proportionate, but I do think you have to read their measurements carefully before you buy.

The Squirrel Party print is not as sharp as the print on my Innocent World skirt, but it is still cute and distinct. The little deer decal on my cardigan looks very 70's-doll-clothes kitschy, but that is part of the appeal of it to me. I honestly like many of their prints for that very reason- they look like modern interpretations of old prints you would find on children's clothes or pajamas, or even children's sheet sets! (I swear I slept on something that looked like the carousel print when I was eight...) Part of why I do sweet Lolita is that it has a certain nostalgic appeal for me as a child of the 80's. Bodyline delivers that nostalgia.  As far as the clothes I have purchased, the quality seems well in line with the price I've paid. For what it's worth, I did use the "Yen trick" when I bought all but my first order, and I've never had to pay shipping. If I was paying full US dollar prices for my clothes, or paying shipping, I might be less enthusiastic about Bodyline's value. 

Yes, Yan appears to be a creepy douchecanoe. I don't like supporting a person who manipulates, fetishizes, or exploits young women. But the truth is- and this may be totally unintentional- he also runs a business that is much more friendly than brand to many Lolitas. How much money you have, or the size of your body should not preclude you from enjoying any certain fashion. I strongly believe that all people have the right to enjoy their own bodies, and adorn them in any way they see fit. So, I have to weigh the general creepiness of stunts like the "Mr.Yan Body Pillow" and stories about him setting up manipulative contracts with his models (like VenusAngelic) against the very real service his store provides to the community. Of course, if I hear substantiated reports that he is raping/assaulting people, I'm done with buying new Bodyline, as I would be done with any person/ entity that perpetuates violent crime.

So, that's why I like Bodyline. I see it as a democratizing force in the Lolita community, filling a niche unaddressed by traditional brands. In my personal experience, the quality has been in line with the price paid, and is reasonable- even good-  by the standards I apply to my regular clothes. The simplistic, cartoonish prints actually appeal to my sense of 80's childhood nostalgia, and I find buying from them to be easy and convenient.

So while Bodyline might not be for everyone, I think it is wrong for people to reflexively look askance at it, or make Lolitas who wear it feel "less than" their brand-wearing peers. I particularly would like to see an end to snipey comments in online forums about the noob "mistake" of wearing Bodyline. Wearing Bodyline is not a mistake- it's a choice. Frankly, it's a choice that makes a lot of sense if you are just getting into the fashion, have a limited budget, are larger than comfortably fits brand sizing, or if you like their particular brand of kitschy cute. I feel there is room enough in Lolita for all Lolitas to coexist peacefully, and room for people like me to cross the boundaries and wear both brand and Bodyline without feeling like I am dressing down when I wear my Bodyline pieces.


Monday, July 27, 2015

Taking a Twinkle Journey to Target- Your New Lolita Headquarters



OK- that's a bit of an exaggeration. But still, I scored some great stuff there for my ongoing efforts to complete my Twinkle Journey coordinate.

I bought an Oo Jia replica of the Metamorphose Twinkle Journey OP at a Lolita gathering earlier this summer, and right from the start, I had big plans for this dress. Based on the grandeur of the design, I knew I needed more than just the little headbow that came with it and a utilitarian pair of tights. This print called for something special. It called for bling. It had "hime" written all over it.

But where would I find the bling worthy of my pegacorns?

As it turns out, the friendly neighborhood Target. I was browsing around, looking for clearance deals, and what did  I spy?  Starry kneesocks.  At $1.50, these beat the pants off of even second-hand brand socks. And they were cute. But not cute enough... So I Lolified them by sewing on a little bow and hot gluing on star trim.


Bam! A perfect match with my new, golden shoes. Why gold, you might ask? Because BLING, that's why. These pegacorns demanded bling, so they got bling. 

I'm not kidding. These pegacorns... it's easy to dismiss them as just some cute fairytale creatures, frolicking in a beautiful meadow. But look closer:


Yeah, that's a treasure chest. Overflowing with loot. My personal theory? These are pirate pegacorns who go around relieving unsuspecting travelers of their valuables. In space. Then they go back to their idyllic homeworld Pegacornyx 5, where they engage in ritual revelries involving their treasures under the starry skies. 

You've got to step it up a notch when dealing with swaggy pirate pegacorns. But you can't get too crazy when you are operating on a teacher's budget. So, I was happy when I found some cute little tiaras and wands over in the Target dollar spot. I was excited, but not over-the-third-moon-of-Pegacornyx 5- excited by the bargain bling. So I went to work again:

Out came my trusty glue gun again, as I added on a few more elements to the tiara. Nothing too splashy- just enough to personalize it.

Then, the piece de resistance. I may or may not have gone a little crazy with the wand. I have never owned a wand before. It just felt like more was better with wands:

Yes, those are three separate bows. And the unicorn has a spangle hot glued to her ear. I can't help it- I was born this way.

Like the pegacorns, I'm a hoarder. I scrapbook; I craft. I go to craft stores and thrift stores and junk stores and the Almighty Outlet and I buy bits and baubles and doodads I can't live without, and I store them. And I wait. That little unicorn has been lurking around my craft room for about two years now, patiently waiting to be turned into something fabulous. Wish: granted, by my Twinkle Journey wand.

Blame it on the hot glue fumes- I do ;-)


Friday, June 12, 2015

Lolita's Postmodern Appeal- Part II

In part two on my series on Lolita and postmodernity, I will be examining the critical commentary Lolita fashion represents. In order to do so, I think it is helpful to look at two movies- one which deals directly with Lolita fashion, and one which has nothing to do with it.

The first movie I wish to explore is Goodby, Lenin, a German movie from 2003 about the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany. The central plot of the movie revolves around the main character's effort to shield his dyed-in-the-wool socialist mother from the unfolding events of the reunification after she suffers a debilitating heart attack. He embarks on a program of deception to convince his mother that everything is "business as usual" in the GDR, but in the process, finds his own motivation to keep up the charade. The idea is that he is able to rewrite history- to create the country and reunification story he wishes was the historical truth. He is able to reimagine socialism in such a way that it becomes his mother's ideal, instead of the fatally flawed system that eventually imploded in the late 1980's.

In much the same way, Lolita fashion allows its wearers to rewrite history. The fashion of the eras showcased by Lolita, while beautiful, was often a not-too-subtle statement about the lowly position of women in society. The very fact that women were seen as ornaments without human agency is attested to by the impractical, constraining nature of the clothing they wore.

Lolita, to a degree, engages in a rhetorical exercise of "what if" by taking these highly impractical garments and subverting them. Hemlines are higher and more walkable. The preferred fabric for Lolita- woven cotton- is lighter, more breathable, and more practical than historically accurate fabrics. Much of the "corset lacing" that typifies Lolita is ornamental instead of practical, and worn on the outside. While generally a more "modest" fashion, Lolita is not about policing women's bodies, nor is it about exhibiting them in an overtly sexualized manner. While Lolita is by no means "casual" or "easy wearing" attire, it is infinitely more practical and less constraining than the historical wear which inspires it.

One can argue that this amounts to a "Disneyification" of historical dress; candy-coating and whitewashing the very real, and very problematic elements of objectification these styles were fraught with. However, I believe Lolita is more properly viewed as an act of reclamation, taking what was once a mark of servility and sex-based oppression and remixing it as a statement on nonconformity and historical reimagining. In this way, I believe Lolita is part of the "FUBU" school of social reclamation- like the 90's and 2000's streetwear brand FUBU- Lolita is a style "for us, by us"- designed primarily by feminine-identifying people, for feminine-identifying people, irrespective of the male gaze. With the exception of those people who have fetishized such clothing, Lolita does not meet current societal standards of "sexiness" or "desirability".  The idea here is that wearing Lolita is a subversion of women-as-ornaments-for-men, and becomes women-ornamenting-themselves-for their-own-enjoyment.

Another way that Lolita serves as social commentary and critique is by creating discursive spaces for the examination of  traditional performances of gender, and ultimately the questioning and deconstruction of such performances. An example of this function of Lolita can be found in the 2004 movie Kamikaze Girls, adapted from the 2002 light novel Shimotsuma Story- Yankee Girl and Lolita Girl by Novala Takemoto.

The story is about two teenage girls- Ichigo, the "yankee" or delinquent, and Momoko, the "Lolita". Both girls live in a semirural area in Japan, and are, in their own ways, estranged from the community around them. Ichigo, in keeping with her delinquent status, appears rough, tomboyish, and stereotypically "masculine" in her pursuits. Momoko, by contrast, appears delicate, ladylike, and stereotypically "feminine", as befits a Lolita devotee. However, the movie quickly makes it apparent that not all is as it seems. Under her rough exterior, Ichigo is a gentle soul seeking social acceptance, while Momoko is cold, withdrawn, and singularly focused. The movie ends with Momoko saving Ichigo from angry gang rivals, in a total reversal of the "damsel in distress" trope. The movie is constantly contrasting appearances v. reality, and questioning the validity of gender performance as a means of judging a person's personality.

As could be expected, Kamikaze Girls has a strong fan base in the Lolita community. Aside from the obvious enjoyment gained from seeing one's subculture featured on screen (along with the adorable old school Baby, The Stars Shine Bright outfits), I believe Kamikaze Girls resonates with Lolitas because it is a specific manifestation of the critique of gender performance Lolita makes in general.

Lolita is, in my opinion, a way to express femininity in isolation, or essence, without the cultural baggage. Unlike Momoko, most Lolitas are not "lifestyle", meaning they don't wear Lolita all the time. While most Lolitas will strongly denounce Lolita as cosplay, the truth is that it is an identity they assume- and take off- at will. The fact that there are male Lolitas- some of whom identify as cisgenderd straight- suggests that this is a "portable" femininity they can try on when it suits them. In the same way Ichigo and Momoko "balance" each other in the movie, I believe Lolita is a safe space for individuals to tweak and define their own gender balance. All people exist somewhere on a gender continuum, but it would be my guess that many Lolitas are more gender (and perhaps sexually) fluid than the society at large. Lolita gives people an "anchor" of femininity when they feel they need it, without encumbering them with the issues that surround more traditional aspects of gender performance in today's society. By making femininity an outfit you wear, it subtly critiques the notion of gender as a viable construct.

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Lolita's Postmodern Appeal- Part I

What is postmodernity? That is a question I have been wrestling with since my graduate study days in the late 1990's.  The best definitions I have seen focus on postmodernity's critique of the modern using pastiche, simulacra, and irony. Simply put, the postmodern is (was) a movement beyond the modern by taking pieces of the modern out of context, then reconfiguring it to create a not-quite-accurate recreation as a means of commentary or critique. For me, the postmodern is best understood through architecture, where the pastiche and ironic qualities are self-evident:


 Kengo Kumo, K2 Buildings, Building Tokyo 1991

If you "get" this building, you "get" postmodernism. Look at all of those historical styles, jumbled together. Look at the outsized Ionic column at the center of the composition, just begging you to contemplate the centrality of Western culture and it's impact on the world we live in. And if this crazy trainwreck of a building doesn't make you smile (or at least shake your head in bemusement), you are truly dead to irony.

There are some who argue that we are  beyond postmodern- "post-postmodern"- and in the larger society, this may be true. There is one place, however, that I believe the postmodern aesthetic and spirit live on, and that is the world of Lolita fashion.

Lolita fashion came about in the 1970's in Japan as an extension of the worldwide fascination with romanticized Victorian historical dress (think Gunne Sax here in the west)- and I contend- as an extension of the new postmodern ethic. It is no surprise that Japan was the home to Lolita, as their rich history of "cultural borrowing" made them supremely comfortable with cherry-picking the most appealing parts of western historical dress, and reassembling them into a frothy pastiche that bore the unmistakable mark of Japanese kawaii aesthetics. Lolita grew to worldwide fame in the 1990's- at exactly the same time postmodernism was reaching its zenith- and became recognizable as the fashion subculture that exists today.






Top: "Otome" or maiden style from 1979- this is very in-line with the whole historical romantic/Pairie Style movement in the west (even though true "historical" Japanese maidens would have been rocking yukatas and kimono!) 
Bottom: 90's Lolita from the pages of Fruits Magazine. Notice how "Gunne Sax-y" the top still looks.  Both pictures are from this blog post, which is a great succinct history of Lolita.

Lolita has become much more than just a tweaking of western Victorian-era styles. Today, Baroque, Rococo, Empire, Regency, Edwardian, post WWII  "New Look", traditional Asian, punk, and even 1980's children's wear influences can all be clearly seen in Lolita style. With all of that historical input, the resulting pastiche is not unlike the building above, in fashion form: 

http://theheianprincess.tumblr.com/image/71857471294

She's wearing an Empire/Regency bonnet, very Rococo-esque sleeves and frills(including a faux stomacher of sorts), the print on the dress appears to be hoop-skirted Victorian ladies at a ball, done in a style reminiscent of children's "Holly Hobbie" bedsheets of the 70's-80's, on top of a poofy skirt held aloft by 50's New Look-esque petticoats that cuts off at the knees like an early 60's dress. Whew! If that doesn't make you smile, or at least shake your head in bemusement, you are truly dead to irony.

So, the pastiche/simulacra side of Lolita is pretty easy to understand. But, what about the commentary/criticism? Is the above outfit intentionally ironic, or did it just end up that way? I would argue that the look above is very intentional, and that ultimately, that is the heart of Lolita's appeal. 

Before I move on, I would like to concede that every designer (and wearer) of Lolita is not making a conscious choice to incorporate elements from exactly the eras represented above, in exacting combination, to make a specific comment on society/fashion/women's roles, etc. In the same way that many pieces of postmodern art or architecture have been made as general commentary, or to appeal to a real, but perhaps unexamined impulse of the popular culture, so are many Lolita outfits a visceral interpretation of the zeitgeist of the 21st century global community from which they arise. That being said, for those inside the Lolita community, the commentary is profound, moving, and deeply embedded in the constant tension between their self-concept and the larger society's definition of their roles.





Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Kawaii Top Five- Animals and Sweets

A big part of the kawaii aesthetic is the depiction of naturally "cute" subjects in exceptionally charming ways. For me, cute animals and cute foods are always winners. The animals make sense, as many animals are naturally cute, but food? Why do I delight in kawaii treatments of berries or candies or milkshakes? That is a tough one for me to answer, but I think it comes down to things I find enjoyable also ranking high on the "cute" scale. Have you ever sat down and really thought about what kawaii motifs you prefer? Frankly, I never have... not until now. I feel like this is an important step in my Kawaii Journey, so here goes... in reverse order of preference, my Top Five Kawaii Animals:

5. Turtles. They aren't cuddly, but they sure are cute! These shelled sweeties are a sure-fire subject for kawaii-ification.
4. Seals. I love seals, even though I know the real ones have a fierce reputation...



3. Bunnies. Because: cute! That's why!
2. Poodles. I have a real soft spot for nervy, poofy poodles. My 14-year old dog is my bestie!


1. Cats. Is it even a question? Felines reign supreme in the world of kawaii. 



Now, Top Five Sweets

5. Wrapped candy.

4. Dango on a stick. I've never even tasted one, but they are soo cute.

3. Macarons. Tres exotique!


2. Ice Cream. Who doesn't love ice cream? In a cone or a dish, this cool treat is sweet!


1. Cakes. Cup/full-sized, slice or whole, cakes are the top sweets in my book (to look at, anyway)



All of these examples were anthropomorphized, though non-anthropomorphic versions can be super kawaii, too.  Of course the absolute kawaii-est of the kawaii is an animal/sweets mashup:


Long Live Kitty Cone!

What are your top five animals and sweets? 




Thursday, May 14, 2015

My Closetchild Order



How exciting! My first foray into "brand" Lolita. At top is a sweet Chocomint hairclip/brooch. The second picture is my Innocent World Francois Rose skirt in pink, and finally a Matamorphose Biscuit jumperskirt. The Biscuit JSK from Meta was one of my earliest desires- in some colorways, I believe the print goes back as far as 2003. I bought these (along with a Baby blouse) at Closetchild, a Japanese second-hand dealer with really competitive prices on brand clothes and accessories. The shipping was fast, and everything was in really good condition. I'll definitely go back there in the future to buy more goodies!

The quality of these clothes is out-of-this-world! The attention to detail is stunning. The old adage is true- you get what you pay for. I know, realistically, that all of my Lolita won't be brand, but I will be happy to have a few of these "luxury" pieces for my wardrobe. Unfortunately, I'll really have to watch size, as brand runs every bit as small as I feared it would. I'm a 4-6 in US sizing, and The IW skirt just barely fits (I'll look into moving the hook closure), the Baby blouse is tight across the chest, and the Meta JSK fits perfectly- if I was even half an inch bigger anywhere, it would be tight.

Monday, May 11, 2015

San-x: An Unsung Hero of Kawaii


Everyone knows Sanrio. But what about San-x?

Founded in the 30's, this Japanese stationary company started out with distinctly un-kawaii scenic landscape-themed wares. In the late 80's, the company launched their first popular kawaii character, called Pinny-mu, a cute little bear with a mouse companion:



It wasn't until the 90's release of Tarepanda that San-x characters really began to gain great popularity. Today, Tarepanda has been joined by Rilakkuma and Mamegoma, and together, these three form the backbone of the San-x Character universe, though I have a special fondness for the slightly gothic "Sentimental Circus" designs myself.

San-x, I salute you!

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Why Kawaii? part One of Eleventy Million


Sanrio.

In one word, that's how it all began. Officially, anyway.

I have this pet theory about the human nurturing instinct. Some people nurture plants. Others take the straight shot and nurture children. Some people are born animal domesticators. their "nurturing" or "mothering" instinct is directed towards baby animals, not baby humans.  I think Kawaii taps into that primal nurturing instinct, so people who have a high degree of nurturing instinct like Kawaii. The direction your instinct runs predisposes you to certain themes. Plant domesticators like little flowers and fruits, child nurturers like kids, and animal nurturers... we like Hello Kitty.

Hello Kitty (and to a lesser extent Little Twin Stars) was the object of my affection as a young child. I just happened to wind up in Southern California in the early 80's, where Sanrio goods were becoming plentiful in the American market. I was enthralled by the sweet white kitty and all of the tiny, cute goods she was emblazoned across. I also enjoyed the pastel world of the Little Twin Stars, especially when it featured their fluffy animal friends. I snapped up mini colored pencils and erasers and folding combs like they were precious gems. I remember trying to convince my mom to buy me a glorious (but expensive) Little Twin Stars travel case. I earnestly told her it was made of "pure vinyl" as a selling point. She laughed, but ultimately bought the little travel set.

In my darkest moments (and trust me, there were some rough times in my childhood), I always turned to cute for comfort. My stuffed animals, my little collection of tchotchkes- they all gave me strength by giving me something precious to protect.  They also proved to be a handy litmus test for determining who I could trust in life. Anyone else who "got" cute was a friend; those who scoffed were not to be trusted. Oddly enough, this turned out to be more than just the desperate and unfounded superstition of a lonely child, as I really can look back and see a distinct divide between those who were Kawaii-friendly and those who were not, in terms of their level of decentness towards me and in general.  This was such a strong impression that I actually ended a romantic relationship as an adult with a man who gently mocked my "childish" taste in bedroom decor.

Love me, love kawaii. It's that simple.

As a writer, I have wrestled with the themes of my childhood, including my love for Kawaii in my newest work, a semi-autobiographical coming-of-age novel called Things I have Lost and Found on Newport Avenue. Below is an excerpt from my book that I think addresses some of the feelings kawaii evokes for me.

                                3.Two Hello Kitty ink pens- one purple, one pink.

I was poor in a sea of wealth. Even in fourth grade, I knew that much. My mother and I, being refugees, had that hodgepodge thrown-together look of displaced persons. We obviously didn’t “fit” in our upper-middle-class neighborhood with our turquoise blue clunker straight out of a Mexican street gang’s wet dream. While the other kids at Arroyo Elementary wore their preppy Izod polos or their slouchy Flashdance-inspired leg warmers, I was rocking Cheap Crap From Zody’s.  Today, I like to think that we were the leading edge of the discount department store craze, but at the time, we just looked really awkward. One of the things my mother made a priority of, purchases-wise, was school supplies. I might be wearing last-year’s fashions from Pic’n’Save, but my notebook, pencils and pens were state-of-the art.

 For me, the state-of-the-art was Sanrio. The original purveyor of Japanese kawaii-themed stationary and tchotchkes was my Calvin Klein. I adored their every iteration of the mouthless Hello Kitty and her animal friends and the gender-ambiguous Little Twin Stars in their pastel cloud heaven. I looked forward to every squatty blue Tuxedosam the penguin eraser and sticker, and delighted in the antics of the curiously caucasian Patty and Jimmy. I loved the stuff so much that I couldn’t conceive of a future when I would put these things aside.

 One day, while cruising down Newport in our blue whale, my mother began the standard-issue parent-child conversation.

“What did you do today at school?”

I gave her my standard-issue response.

“Not much.”

Much to my irritation, she continued in this vein.

“Surely you did something today.”

I sighed. “Of course we did something. It just wasn’t a very interesting something. We finished a story in Reading about Maria Tallchief, and then had to write a bunch of stuff about what we want to do when we grow up.”

My mother perked up. “Oh, the ballerina? I think I’ve read that story, too. What did you write about wanting to do?”

“Well, I want to open my own store that sells nothing but Sanrio products.” I began. “Like, a huge Sanrio store, as big as a grocery store. I would sell everything they make- maybe even old stuff. It would be the biggest one in the world, even bigger than any in Japan.”

My mom giggled.  “As big as a grocery store? That might be hard. Do they even make that much Hello Kitty stuff?”

I rolled my eyes. “Sanrio is way more than just Hello Kitty, Mom.  There are a lot of different lines.  I feel confident I could find enough to stock my store.”

It seems insignificant, but my mother’s decision to allow me these little indulgences went a long way in easing my passage through school’s social minefield.  Though she may not have been able to tell the difference between Kerropi and Poccacho, she did know about the casual cruelty of small children.  She also seemed to understand that improbable as it seemed, the stoutest armor against the cutting remarks of the clique could be fruit-scented erasers and dangly pencil charms.
My Sanrio collection went far beyond the obligatory pencils and erasers, though. I happened to be the lucky owner of a Hello Kitty desk tray pencil organizer and a Little Twin Stars portable pencil box with a magnetic clasp. In them I had a fulsome assortment of pens and pencils, sharpeners, erasers, and even a pair of scissors. I understood the street value of such exceptional examples of the stationer’s craft, so I often would pack up my best accessories in my travel case, and bring them home in the afternoon for safekeeping. In this way they served double duty, making me a sought-after bus seat companion, as others would urge me to show them my trove as we lumbered slowly along Newport.

The other love in my life at that moment aside from Sanrio was a boy in my class named Daniel Reese. Daniel had sleek black hair and dreamy hazel eyes, and a quick smile that he lavished on everyone, including me. I had the great luck to both sit behind him in class and ride the same bus with him to and from school. Though he lived a block up from me on Newport, we would meet the bus at the same stop.

I would casually initiate conversations with him about homework assignments and other class happenings as we stood in the morning waiting for the bus.  Nothing made my day brighter than starting it with small talk about the language arts workbook or the math problems from the night before. I began to feel as if I had a real rapport with Daniel- I felt much more at ease talking to him than any other boy. The strict sex segregation of the younger grades was beginning to break down, and I was excited and nervous to engage the opposite sex.

As we stood at the bus stop one morning, a slight November chill in the air prompting us to huddle together a little more closely on the sidewalk, Daniel sidled up next to me. My heart began thumping loudly as he leaned in to look at what I was doing.  At that moment I was showing another girl some of my newest acquisitions- a set of Hello Kitty ink pens in my favored pastel colors.
“Wow! Those are rad.” Daniel enthused.

I blushed slightly. “Uh-huh. I just got them. They write really well.”

“They look really cool. Could I have one?” Daniel asked.

My heart skipped a beat. Daniel wanted something of mine? Something girly he wouldn’t normally want? That could mean only one thing. He was “in” to me.

“Yeah, sure. Take two. I’ve got more at home.” I quickly blurted.

He stood looking at the pens in my outstretched hand for a second, then slowly plucked the pink and purple out of my grip. My favorites. I was lying, of course when I said I had others, but this was worth it for the cause of True Love.  As he took the pens, the bus came screeching up to the bus stop.

“Thanks. These are awesome.” He said as he smiled and leapt up the stairs of the bus.

All the way to school, and most of the day in class, I fantasized about Daniel treasuring my pens, taking them out and sighing as he looked at them. Where would he keep them? Under his pillow? In a special box? I grinned stupidly the whole day as I imagined how he would confess his true love to me.  When I got on the bus that afternoon, my eyes darted around the seats, looking for Daniel, but I could see he was already seated in a knot of other boys, giggling over a stack of Garbage Pail Kids. I took a seat a few places up and on the opposite side of the bus, and turned slightly to my side so I could glance surreptitiously his way once in a while. Because of my awkward position, I didn’t notice who took the seat in front of me.

“Kari. Hey. Kari Pennington.” I heard my name being called.

I glanced up, and saw Kim Mc Shaughnessy looming over the back of the seat in front of me. I cringed a little and groaned inwardly at the sight. Kim was the “it” girl in our class, and she barely ever spoke two words to me.  She was vapid but pretty, and was the type of girl who I saw as my complete opposite. I understood beauty was power- a lot more power than smarts would ever be- so I instinctively knew Kim and her ilk to be my most dread enemies.

“Uh, yeah?” I replied.

“Hey. Are these yours? Like, they look like the stuff you usually have.”

Over the seat, Kim held up my two pens- Daniel’s pens now. It was my turn to be the space cadet as I looked at her without the slightest hint of comprehension.

“No, I don’t think so. I don’t have any like that now.”

Kim tossed her head a little. “Oh, because Danny Reese gave them to me today, and when I asked where he got them, he said you. You can have them back if you want.”

Everything got a little darker on the bus around me. I stopped hearing the chatter of the kids and the roar of the struggling diesel engine. I felt a huge lump form in my throat as everything suddenly made sense. Daniel took the pens from me to give to Kim. He doesn’t like me at all. He likes her. He was just using me, and she knows it.

This was Do or Die time, and I knew it. Any hint of weakness, however slight, would doom me to an indeterminate period of ridicule from Kim and her crew. I had to answer the right way, and I had to do it quickly.

I looked Kim directly in the eyes, carefully composing my features into “bored” configuration. Inside, my heart was beating crazy irregular rhythms, and the remnants of the turkey sandwich and gummy bear lunch in my stomach was trying to crawl up my throat, threatening to choke off my words.

“Oh, yeah. Those. I’d forgotten about them. You keep them. They were just extras I had.”

I kept my tone cool, my words offhand.

The subtext was clear- Those things? I was just going to throw them away. That’s why I gave them to someone like Daniel. Keep my trash if it makes you happy.

Kim sniffed a little as she eyed me. “Yeah, OK. I just thought you might want to have them back. I’m not even sure why he gave them to me.”

Yeah, right, bitch. I thought. You know damn well why he gave them to you, but I’m not going to give you the satisfaction of seeing me flinch. Just the thought of curse words being lobbed at that stuck up Kim Mc Shaughnessy made me feel a little better.  But only a little. Because my heart was breaking- I not only wasn’t liked by my beloved, but he had used me, and put me in an awkward position. It was total betrayal, pure and simple.

The rest of the ride home along the gentle curves of Newport seemed to take twice as long as usual. As I piled off with the other kids at my stop, I was grateful to be away from the noise and the smell of the bus. I noticed Daniel didn’t even try to make eye contact with me- he knew his crime had been discovered. I walked quickly home, my head low, so no one else could see the hot tears that rolled down my cheeks. Thank God for Newport’s loud roar that day- no one could hear the choked little sobs that escaped the back of my throat. I ran into the house, straight to my room. I dumped my backpack out on my bed, and grabbed my pencil case. I clutched it hard to my chest before opening my nightstand drawer and putting it inside. Today marked the end of my Sanrio era- or at least the end of my conspicuous public consumption of Sanrio goods. The gambit had worked for a while, but it was turning sour. I would have to find a way of amassing social capital that didn’t put my heart in such a vulnerable spot.

My friends were surprised when the iconic white pencil case never reappeared. I casually commented that I thought that stuff was getting a little babyish- what I really liked now was Trapper Keepers.

At least, I reasoned, no one could ask you for your binder, and they made great “fortresses” when you opened them and stood them up on your desk.  Fortresses would become my new favorite things- actual ones like the binders my friends and I would crouch behind as we giggled together, and figurative ones like the distance I would carefully build between myself and anyone who would try to get too close to me. I didn’t belong here, and I didn’t have anything special to make the locals want to take me in. So, I needed fortresses to hold back the sweeping currents of Newport, the currents that washed away my first love.

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Taking the Lolita Plunge


I have been stalking Lolita fashion for all my life- and I'm 39 years old.

While "Lolita" or "Gothic Lolita" ar "Elegant Gothic Lolita" wasn't even on my radar until 2004 or '05, I have spent my life loving the sort of ahistorically-historical, uber-frilly, hyperfeminine clothing that defines Lolita style. I've always loved things that were small, cute, and delicate-looking, and this carried over to fashion. Even when I went through a "tomboy" phase (how I hate that term), I still loved my pastel colors, cute animals, food-themed accessories, and ruffles. I'm not sure why, exactly- in future posts, I will attempt to work through the attraction kawaii culture holds for me in general- but I do know that whatever drives me to cuteness is embedded deep in my DNA.

When I first started seeing Lolita fashion, I was smitten, but  I was also realistic. The high prices, the primitive state of international internet sales, and the generally bewildering, arbitrary, (and tiny) sizing of most "brand" clothing made Lolita pretty to look at, but out of reach. So I waited.

Last summer, I went to a Hello Kitty 40th Anniversary event in town (shout out to Yoki at the River Market), and much to my surprise, I saw Lolitas there. Real, in-the-flesh Lolitas. In Kansas City!

I was now on a mission.

I tracked down these rare and adorable birds to their "Kansas City Lolitas" Facebook page... and commenced stalking some more. Because I was determined to find where they found their clothes, and start my own Lolita odyssey.

Last Sunday,  I went to my first KC Lolitas meetup. It was adorable. They were adorable. I was adorable. Everything was SO frickin' adorable, my emojis had emojis.
Going Lolita has been (and will likely continue to be) full of revelations. 

Things I did not expect:


1. The availability of Lolita fashion in the US. Lace Market? Never heard of it before a few weeks ago. Closetchild? What is that? Bodyline? Dear, sweet, affordable Bodyline, with sizes galore? I stumbled across them by accident.

2. The "snobbishness" of Lolita. Really, I guess I stupidly expected Lolita to be one great big tea party. According to the websites I've read, it isn't. Apparently, some Lolitas can be quite snobbish about "brand" clothes, and judgemental about people's outfits. Apparently raschel lace is gauche, black-with-white-lace is a horrible offense, cheaper makers (like my beloved Bodyline) are to be scorned, and everyone you think looks bad is an "Ita".

3. A local group and area Lolita activities. Really? In KC?

4. Male Lolis. Yep, there are guys who dress Lolita, and I love it!

Things I expected, but did not come to pass:

1. The local scene to be dominated by teenagers. As soon as I heard there were Lolitas in the area,  I assumed they were ansty teenagers who had branched out from the cosplay scene.

2. Being ridiculed for my dress in public. I was terrified regular people would scoff at me. As far as I know, no one did.

3. To be told I was "doing it wrong". See #2 above.

Things I expected, that did bear out:

1. A high degree of interest in kawaii, design, and visual art in general among Lolis. I can't speak for all Lolis, but the ones I've met so far seem to have an eye for other manifestations of kawaii, and an appreciation for beauty in general.

2. Most of the Lolis I met were considerably younger than me. Not teens per se but lots of twentysomethings. This is NOT an old woman's game.

3. Stories of creepy people confusing Lolita style with Lolita the book by Nabokov, and mistaking women's bodies as public property, especially when they aren't conforming to society's "standard" female uniform.

Like everything in life, Lolita is simultaneously more/ less than what it seems. Lolita is just like regular life- only cuter!